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對GB/T4802.1-2008《紡織品織物起毛起球性能的測定第1 部分：圓軌跡法》的研究
時間：2020-06-18 10:58
織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物在穿著過程中(zhong)由于(yu)其(qi)內部(纖維種(zhong)類(lei)、織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物結構(gou)(gou)、后整理等(deng))和(he)外部(摩擦、勾絲(si)等(deng))原(yuan)因,容易產生起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)的(de)(de)不(bu)良現象,這嚴重影響(xiang)了紡織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)服(fu)(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)的(de)(de)服(fu)(fu)(fu)用(yong)性(xing)能(neng)和(he)美觀(guan)性(xing)能(neng)。我國現行的(de)(de)紡織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)服(fu)(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)測(ce)試(shi)(shi)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)目前有(you)4種(zhong)：圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)、改型(xing)馬丁代爾法(fa)(fa)(fa)、起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)箱法(fa)(fa)(fa)和(he)隨即(ji)翻滾法(fa)(fa)(fa),對(dui)應方法(fa)(fa)(fa)標(biao)準(zhun)分別為(wei) GBT4802.1—-2008、GBT4802.2—2008、GB/T4802.3—2008和(he) GBT4802.4——2009。據(ju)檢測(ce)機構(gou)(gou)統(tong)(tong)計,這幾種(zhong)測(ce)試(shi)(shi)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)中(zhong)圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)法(fa)(fa)(fa)使(shi)用(yong)較為(wei)頻繁。在所有(you)測(ce)試(shi)(shi)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)中(zhong)使(shi)用(yong)占比80%。在《針(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)運動服(fu)(fu)(fu)》《針(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)休(xiu)閑(xian)服(fu)(fu)(fu)》《單、夾(jia)服(fu)(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)》《男西服(fu)(fu)(fu)》《針(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)T恤衫》等(deng)產品標(biao)準(zhun)中(zhong)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)測(ce)試(shi)(shi)標(biao)準(zhun)均(jun)采用(yong)圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)。由此可見,圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)標(biao)準(zhun)的(de)(de)系統(tong)(tong)、規范和(he)完整對(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)性(xing)能(neng)評價(jia)的(de)(de)準(zhun)確性(xing)至(zhi)關重要。本文對(dui)現行 GBT4802.1-2008 圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)檢測(ce)標(biao)準(zhun)中(zhong)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物磨料(liao)(liao)、泡沫塑料(liao)(liao)墊片、尼龍刷等(deng)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)材料(liao)(liao)存在的(de)(de)問題和(he)不(bu)足進行了分析和(he)研究,并提出一(yi)些意見和(he)建議(yi)。
1、起(qi)毛起(qi)球機理
在(zai)我們(men)日常生活中(zhong)(zhong),紡織(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)(pin)(pin)經(jing)常穿、用(yong)(yong)(yong)和洗滌.持(chi)續遭到外界和本身的(de)摩擦力和其他作用(yong)(yong)(yong)力,其表層的(de)纖維逐(zhu)漸(jian)被拉出而凸出顯(xian)露,在(zai)紡織(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)(pin)(pin)表面(mian)呈現(xian)很多(duo)碎小絨(rong)毛(mao)(mao)，這(zhe)個過(guo)程為“起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)”：在(zai)不(bu)斷使用(yong)(yong)(yong)過(guo)程中(zhong)(zhong)絨(rong)毛(mao)(mao)未(wei)能從紡織(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)(pin)(pin)表面(mian)隨即脫離,而彼(bi)此纏繞在(zai)一(yi)起(qi),形成許多(duo)致密的(de)球形小粒,這(zhe)個過(guo)程為“起(qi)球”。圓軌跡法試(shi)驗(yan)采用(yong)(yong)(yong)尼龍刷(shua)和織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨料(liao)(liao)試(shi)驗(yan)材(cai)料(liao)(liao)抑或只(zhi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨料(liao)(liao)。按照規定(ding)方法和測試(shi)參數,使試(shi)驗(yan)樣(yang)品(pin)(pin)(pin)摩擦發(fa)生起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)球,再在(zai)評(ping)級(ji)箱中(zhong)(zhong)定(ding)的(de)光源照射條件下,對織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)球情況做(zuo)視覺描(miao)述(shu)評(ping)級(ji)。作為主要試(shi)驗(yan)材(cai)料(liao)(liao)的(de)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨料(liao)(liao)，泡沫塑料(liao)(liao)墊片(pian)和尼龍刷(shua)對織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)球評(ping)定(ding)級(ji)數要重大影(ying)響。
2、影響因(yin)素
2.1 織物磨料
標準中對織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)規(gui)定為(wei)(wei)：材質(zhi)為(wei)(wei)2201全毛華(hua)達呢,織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)組織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)為(wei)(wei)兩(liang)上(shang)兩(liang)下右斜紋線密(mi)度為(wei)(wei)19.6tex×2，捻度為(wei)(wei) Z625-S700，密(mi)度為(wei)(wei) 445根/10cm×244根/l0cm，單位面積質(zhi)量(liang)為(wei)(wei) 305g/m2。附錄(lu)A中關于(yu)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)更換規(gui)定為(wei)(wei)：因長時(shi)間試驗(yan)(yan)會對磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)造成磨(mo)損,為(wei)(wei)避免這(zhe)種(zhong)情況影響試樣起毛起球程(cheng)度的(de)(de)正確(que)判定.作為(wei)(wei)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)2201華(hua)達呢應(ying)定期進行校驗(yan)(yan),新的(de)(de)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)經過預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)后方可試驗(yan)(yan)：如(ru)果(guo)同(tong)一織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)采用(yong)新舊(jiu)華(hua)達呢磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)試驗(yan)(yan)所得起毛起球級(ji)數相差(cha)達到半級(ji)以上(shang),則應(ying)及時(shi)更換新的(de)(de)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)。但織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)在(zai)用(yong)于(yu)試驗(yan)(yan)前要經過怎樣具體參數的(de)(de)預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)才能(neng)(neng)正式使用(yong)未(wei)點(dian)明：不同(tong)類型(xing)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起毛起球等級(ji)也相差(cha)很多,新舊(jiu)華(hua)達呢磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)級(ji)數相差(cha)半級(ji)以上(shang),具體以哪種(zhong)標準織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)為(wei)(wei)參考、選取哪種(zhong)試驗(yan)(yan)參數,也未(wei)清晰規(gui)定。在(zai)JF(紡織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi))031—2013《織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起毛起球儀(圓軌跡法)校準規(gui)范》中對于(yu)儀器(qi)的(de)(de)校準項目(mu)和校準方法中也未(wei)提到織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)檢查。這(zhe)些漏洞可能(neng)(neng)會對實驗(yan)(yan)室起球級(ji)數評定準確(que)性產生影響。
建議標準(zhun)中補(bu)充(chong)對磨(mo)料織(zhi)物(wu)的(de)預(yu)磨(mo)參(can)數規定(ding),如用(yong)什么標準(zhun)類(lei)型織(zhi)物(wu)在多少(shao)(shao)壓力條件下預(yu)磨(mo)多少(shao)(shao)次：補(bu)充(chong)對更換(huan)舊織(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)料的(de)起(qi)球(qiu)評價標準(zhun)參(can)考織(zhi)物(wu)的(de)規定(ding),統一標準(zhun)物(wu)質和試驗參(can)數。
2.2 泡沫塑料墊(dian)片
標準中對泡(pao)沫(mo)塑(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)的規定為：墊(dian)片(pian)直徑、厚(hou)度、單位(wei)面積質(zhi)量(liang)分別(bie)約(yue)為 105mm、8mm、270g/m2。只模糊規定了各(ge)參(can)數(shu)大約(yue)值，未詳(xiang)細規定其(qi)上下允差,這(zhe)使得各(ge)檢測機構試(shi)驗用泡(pao)沫(mo)塑(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)密度、硬(ying)度、厚(hou)度等不統(tong)一，從而影(ying)響試(shi)驗結果精準性(xing)。
蘇丹霞研究(jiu)了(le)泡沫塑(su)(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)的(de)厚(hou)度(du)(du)和硬(ying)度(du)(du)對(dui)織(zhi)物起(qi)毛起(qi)球結(jie)(jie)果的(de)影響(xiang)，結(jie)(jie)果表明同(tong)(tong)(tong)一(yi)硬(ying)度(du)(du)條件(jian)下，不同(tong)(tong)(tong)厚(hou)度(du)(du)的(de)塑(su)(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)使得(de)織(zhi)物起(qi)球等(deng)級可相(xiang)(xiang)差一(yi)級；同(tong)(tong)(tong)一(yi)厚(hou)度(du)(du)條件(jian)下，不同(tong)(tong)(tong)硬(ying)度(du)(du)的(de)塑(su)(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)制得(de)織(zhi)物起(qi)球等(deng)級可相(xiang)(xiang)差半級。董躍研究(jiu)了(le)泡沫塑(su)(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)的(de)表觀(guan)密(mi)(mi)度(du)(du)對(dui)織(zhi)物起(qi)毛起(qi)球結(jie)(jie)果的(de)影響(xiang)，結(jie)(jie)果表明不同(tong)(tong)(tong)表觀(guan)密(mi)(mi)度(du)(du)的(de)塑(su)(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)對(dui)化(hua)學短纖(xian)混紡織(zhi)物起(qi)球等(deng)級產生較大影響(xiang)，可使其起(qi)球等(deng)級相(xiang)(xiang)差一(yi)級。
由此(ci)可見,泡(pao)沫塑(su)料(liao)墊片約定寬松的參(can)數會對試驗(yan)結(jie)果(guo)產生較大影響,建(jian)議制(zhi)定嚴格(ge)的參(can)數設置,詳細規定其(qi)單位面積質量，厚度的上下允(yun)差(cha)范圍和硬度大小。
2.3 尼(ni)龍(long)刷
標準中(zhong)(zhong)對尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)刷的(de)(de)規定為：尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)刷中(zhong)(zhong)每孔(kong)中(zhong)(zhong)植尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)絲150根,孔(kong)徑4.5mm,每孔(kong)間(jian)距(ju)7mm,每根尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)絲直徑0.3mm；所(suo)用(yong)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)剛(gang)性大小要均勻一(yi)致(zhi)：尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)刷刷面要求平整，在同一(yi)水平面上；尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)有(you)效(xiao)高度可通過調節板上下調節，從而控制尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)刷的(de)(de)起毛(mao)效(xiao)果。另外附錄A中(zhong)(zhong)增加了(le)對尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)刷調節的(de)(de)描寫(xie)。作為對織物起毛(mao)起主要作用(yong)的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)刷,標準中(zhong)(zhong)對其的(de)(de)規定太籠統,如尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)刷制備(bei)材料(liao)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)剛(gang)性大小、新尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)刷的(de)(de)預磨(mo)參數、試(shi)驗(yan)用(yong)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)刷的(de)(de)高度范圍等,這些(xie)因(yin)素都對織物起毛(mao)起球性能產生很(hen)大影響。
尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)大(da)小(xiao)(xiao)對織物(wu)的(de)(de)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球性(xing)(xing)(xing)能具有決定性(xing)(xing)(xing)影響。剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)大(da)的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲使(shi)得尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)對織物(wu)產生較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)大(da)作用(yong)(yong)力(li),從而使(shi)織物(wu)起(qi)(qi)球級數較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)低：而剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)小(xiao)(xiao)的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲使(shi)得尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)對織物(wu)產生較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)小(xiao)(xiao)作用(yong)(yong)力(li),從而使(shi)織物(wu)起(qi)(qi)球級數較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)高。標準(zhun)中對尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)只提(ti)到尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)應均(jun)勻一(yi)致,而未詳細規定尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)值大(da)小(xiao)(xiao)。目前市(shi)場上銷售的(de)(de)圓軌跡起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球試驗儀所配的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)來自不同(tong)的(de)(de)加(jia)工(gong)廠家(jia)。全國(guo)各實驗室所用(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)設備型號。廠家(jia)也(ye)不盡相同(tong),尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)值不統一(yi)，這對試驗結果的(de)(de)精準(zhun)性(xing)(xing)(xing)和(he)一(yi)致性(xing)(xing)(xing)造成嚴重影響。
剛出(chu)廠的(de)新尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)刷(shua)由于尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)絲頭端(duan)形態(tai)不一致(zhi),有尖(jian)銳端(duan)或凹陷不平端(duan),對織物起毛(mao)起球(qiu)效(xiao)果的(de)正確評(ping)估會產生不利影(ying)響,所以正式試(shi)驗前(qian)應進(jin)(jin)行(xing)預(yu)磨(mo)。而(er)附(fu)錄A中對預(yu)磨(mo)的(de)規定為：新尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)刷(shua)正式試(shi)驗前(qian)應進(jin)(jin)行(xing)一定次數(shu)的(de)預(yu)磨(mo)并用參(can)照織物校核。未詳細說明新尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)刷(shua)具體預(yu)磨(mo)參(can)數(shu),如(ru)預(yu)磨(mo)材料(liao)、預(yu)磨(mo)載荷預(yu)磨(mo)次數(shu)等。也(ye)未規定具體用哪種(zhong)參(can)照織物校核,預(yu)磨(mo)后參(can)照織物起毛(mao)起球(qiu)效(xiao)果達到幾(ji)級。
尼(ni)龍(long)刷試驗有(you)效高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du)對織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球效果也產生影響。有(you)效高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du)高(gao)(gao)時,尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)屈(qu)曲程度(du)(du)(du)大,尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)束(shu)較分散,相(xiang)對運(yun)動時尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)束(shu)與(yu)織(zhi)物相(xiang)互(hu)(hu)作(zuo)用(yong)力小(xiao),使得織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)球級數較高(gao)(gao):有(you)效高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du)低時,尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)屈(qu)曲程度(du)(du)(du)小(xiao),尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)束(shu)較聚集,相(xiang)對運(yun)動時尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)束(shu)與(yu)織(zhi)物相(xiang)互(hu)(hu)作(zuo)用(yong)力大，使得織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)球級數較低。標準中只提到尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du)應一致,可調節其(qi)有(you)效高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du),但有(you)效高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)(du)適宜范圍(wei)值(zhi)未作(zuo)規(gui)定(ding),這(zhe)亟須進一步統一規(gui)定(ding)。
3、結論
為確保圓(yuan)軌(gui)跡起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球測試方法的嚴(yan)謹性和精準性建(jian)議修訂 GBT4802.1-2008 標準時(shi)增加以(yi)下內容
(1)補(bu)充(chong)對(dui)磨(mo)(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)參數(織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)種類、預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)壓力、預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)次數)規定(ding)和對(dui)更換舊織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨(mo)(mo)料的(de)起球評價(jia)標準參考織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)規定(ding),統(tong)一標準物(wu)(wu)質(zhi)和試驗(yan)參數。
(2)詳細(xi)規定(ding)泡沫(mo)塑料墊片單位面積質量、厚度(du)的上下允差范(fan)圍和硬度(du)大小。
(3)對尼(ni)龍刷(shua)的制備材料尼(ni)龍絲(si)剛性值統一規(gui)定(ding)；補充對新尼(ni)龍刷(shua)預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)參數(shu)(預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)材料、預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)載荷(he)、預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)次數(shu))的規(gui)定(ding),明確校(xiao)核參照織(zhi)物:對尼(ni)龍刷(shua)試(shi)驗有效高度加以規(gui)定(ding)。