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對GB/T4802.1-2008《紡織品織物起毛起球性能的測定第1 部分：圓軌跡法》的研究
時間：2020-06-18 10:58
織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)在(zai)穿著過程中由于其內(nei)部(纖維種類、織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)結構、后整(zheng)理等(deng)(deng))和(he)(he)外部(摩擦、勾(gou)絲等(deng)(deng))原因,容易產生(sheng)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)的(de)不良現(xian)(xian)(xian)象,這嚴重(zhong)影響了紡(fang)織(zhi)(zhi)服(fu)(fu)裝的(de)服(fu)(fu)用性(xing)(xing)能和(he)(he)美觀(guan)性(xing)(xing)能。我國現(xian)(xian)(xian)行的(de)紡(fang)織(zhi)(zhi)服(fu)(fu)裝起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)測試(shi)(shi)方(fang)法(fa)(fa)(fa)目前(qian)有4種：圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)(ji)(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)、改(gai)型馬丁代爾法(fa)(fa)(fa)、起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)箱(xiang)法(fa)(fa)(fa)和(he)(he)隨即翻滾法(fa)(fa)(fa),對(dui)(dui)應方(fang)法(fa)(fa)(fa)標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)分(fen)別為 GBT4802.1—-2008、GBT4802.2—2008、GB/T4802.3—2008和(he)(he) GBT4802.4——2009。據(ju)檢測機構統計,這幾種測試(shi)(shi)方(fang)法(fa)(fa)(fa)中圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)(ji)(ji)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)法(fa)(fa)(fa)使(shi)用較為頻繁。在(zai)所有測試(shi)(shi)方(fang)法(fa)(fa)(fa)中使(shi)用占比80%。在(zai)《針(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)運動服(fu)(fu)》《針(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)休閑服(fu)(fu)》《單、夾服(fu)(fu)裝》《男(nan)西(xi)服(fu)(fu)》《針(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)T恤衫》等(deng)(deng)產品標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)中起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)測試(shi)(shi)標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)均(jun)采(cai)用圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)(ji)(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)。由此可見(jian),圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)(ji)(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)的(de)系統、規范和(he)(he)完(wan)整(zheng)對(dui)(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)性(xing)(xing)能評(ping)價的(de)準(zhun)確性(xing)(xing)至關重(zhong)要。本文對(dui)(dui)現(xian)(xian)(xian)行 GBT4802.1-2008 圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)(ji)(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)檢測標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)中織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨料(liao)、泡沫塑料(liao)墊片、尼(ni)龍刷等(deng)(deng)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)材料(liao)存在(zai)的(de)問(wen)題(ti)和(he)(he)不足進(jin)行了分(fen)析和(he)(he)研究,并提出一些意見(jian)和(he)(he)建議(yi)。
1、起毛起球機理
在(zai)(zai)我們日常生(sheng)活中(zhong),紡織品(pin)經常穿(chuan)、用和(he)洗滌.持續遭到(dao)外界(jie)和(he)本身的摩擦力(li)和(he)其他作(zuo)用力(li),其表層的纖維逐漸被拉出而(er)凸出顯露,在(zai)(zai)紡織品(pin)表面(mian)呈現很多碎(sui)小(xiao)絨毛(mao)(mao)，這個過(guo)程(cheng)為“起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)”：在(zai)(zai)不斷使用過(guo)程(cheng)中(zhong)絨毛(mao)(mao)未能從紡織品(pin)表面(mian)隨即(ji)脫離,而(er)彼此纏(chan)繞在(zai)(zai)一(yi)起(qi)(qi),形(xing)成(cheng)許多致密的球形(xing)小(xiao)粒(li),這個過(guo)程(cheng)為“起(qi)(qi)球”。圓(yuan)軌跡法試(shi)(shi)驗采用尼(ni)龍刷和(he)織物(wu)(wu)磨料(liao)試(shi)(shi)驗材料(liao)抑或只(zhi)用織物(wu)(wu)磨料(liao)。按(an)照規(gui)定(ding)(ding)(ding)方法和(he)測試(shi)(shi)參數,使試(shi)(shi)驗樣品(pin)摩擦發生(sheng)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球,再(zai)在(zai)(zai)評(ping)(ping)級(ji)箱中(zhong)定(ding)(ding)(ding)的光源(yuan)照射(she)條件下,對織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球情況做視覺描述評(ping)(ping)級(ji)。作(zuo)為主要試(shi)(shi)驗材料(liao)的織物(wu)(wu)磨料(liao)，泡沫塑料(liao)墊片和(he)尼(ni)龍刷對織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球評(ping)(ping)定(ding)(ding)(ding)級(ji)數要重大影響。
2、影響因素
2.1 織物磨(mo)料
標準(zhun)中(zhong)(zhong)對織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)料的規(gui)(gui)(gui)定(ding)為(wei)(wei)：材質為(wei)(wei)2201全毛(mao)(mao)華(hua)達呢,織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)組(zu)織(zhi)(zhi)為(wei)(wei)兩上(shang)兩下右斜紋線密度為(wei)(wei)19.6tex×2，捻度為(wei)(wei) Z625-S700，密度為(wei)(wei) 445根/10cm×244根/l0cm，單位面積質量為(wei)(wei) 305g/m2。附(fu)錄A中(zhong)(zhong)關于磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的更換規(gui)(gui)(gui)定(ding)為(wei)(wei)：因(yin)長時間試(shi)驗(yan)(yan)會(hui)對磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)造成(cheng)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)損,為(wei)(wei)避免這種情況影響試(shi)樣(yang)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)程度的正確(que)判定(ding).作為(wei)(wei)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的2201華(hua)達呢應(ying)定(ding)期進行校(xiao)驗(yan)(yan),新的磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)經(jing)過(guo)預磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)后方(fang)可試(shi)驗(yan)(yan)：如果(guo)同(tong)一織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)采用(yong)新舊華(hua)達呢磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)料試(shi)驗(yan)(yan)所得起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)級(ji)(ji)數相差(cha)達到半(ban)(ban)級(ji)(ji)以(yi)(yi)上(shang),則(ze)應(ying)及時更換新的磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)。但織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)料在用(yong)于試(shi)驗(yan)(yan)前要經(jing)過(guo)怎樣(yang)具體(ti)參數的預磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)才(cai)能正式使(shi)用(yong)未點明：不同(tong)類型(xing)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)等級(ji)(ji)也相差(cha)很(hen)多(duo),新舊華(hua)達呢磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)料級(ji)(ji)數相差(cha)半(ban)(ban)級(ji)(ji)以(yi)(yi)上(shang),具體(ti)以(yi)(yi)哪(na)種標準(zhun)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)為(wei)(wei)參考、選取哪(na)種試(shi)驗(yan)(yan)參數,也未清(qing)晰(xi)規(gui)(gui)(gui)定(ding)。在JF(紡織(zhi)(zhi))031—2013《織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)儀(yi)(圓軌跡法)校(xiao)準(zhun)規(gui)(gui)(gui)范(fan)》中(zhong)(zhong)對于儀(yi)器的校(xiao)準(zhun)項(xiang)目和校(xiao)準(zhun)方(fang)法中(zhong)(zhong)也未提到織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)(mo)料的檢查。這些漏洞可能會(hui)對實(shi)驗(yan)(yan)室起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)級(ji)(ji)數評(ping)定(ding)準(zhun)確(que)性(xing)產生(sheng)影響。
建議標準中補充(chong)對(dui)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料織物(wu)的預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)參(can)數規(gui)定,如用(yong)什么標準類型(xing)織物(wu)在多少壓(ya)力條件下預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)多少次：補充(chong)對(dui)更(geng)換舊織物(wu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料的起球評價標準參(can)考織物(wu)的規(gui)定,統一(yi)標準物(wu)質和(he)試驗參(can)數。
2.2 泡沫塑(su)料墊片
標準中對泡(pao)(pao)沫(mo)塑料(liao)墊片(pian)的規(gui)定(ding)為(wei)：墊片(pian)直徑、厚度(du)(du)(du)、單位面積(ji)質量分別(bie)約(yue)為(wei) 105mm、8mm、270g/m2。只模糊規(gui)定(ding)了各參數大約(yue)值，未詳細規(gui)定(ding)其上下允差,這使得各檢(jian)測機構試(shi)驗用泡(pao)(pao)沫(mo)塑料(liao)墊片(pian)密度(du)(du)(du)、硬(ying)度(du)(du)(du)、厚度(du)(du)(du)等不統一，從而(er)影(ying)響試(shi)驗結果精準性。
蘇丹(dan)霞研究了泡(pao)沫塑料墊(dian)片(pian)(pian)的厚(hou)(hou)度(du)和硬度(du)對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)結(jie)(jie)果的影(ying)(ying)響(xiang)，結(jie)(jie)果表(biao)明同一硬度(du)條件下，不(bu)(bu)同厚(hou)(hou)度(du)的塑料墊(dian)片(pian)(pian)使(shi)(shi)得織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級可相(xiang)差一級；同一厚(hou)(hou)度(du)條件下，不(bu)(bu)同硬度(du)的塑料墊(dian)片(pian)(pian)制得織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級可相(xiang)差半級。董躍研究了泡(pao)沫塑料墊(dian)片(pian)(pian)的表(biao)觀密度(du)對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)結(jie)(jie)果的影(ying)(ying)響(xiang)，結(jie)(jie)果表(biao)明不(bu)(bu)同表(biao)觀密度(du)的塑料墊(dian)片(pian)(pian)對(dui)化學短纖(xian)混紡織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級產生較大影(ying)(ying)響(xiang)，可使(shi)(shi)其起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級相(xiang)差一級。
由此可(ke)見,泡沫塑料(liao)墊片約定寬(kuan)松(song)的參數會(hui)對試驗結果產(chan)生(sheng)較(jiao)大(da)影響,建議制定嚴格的參數設置,詳細(xi)規(gui)定其(qi)單位面(mian)積質量，厚(hou)度的上下允差范圍和硬度大(da)小。
2.3 尼龍刷
標準(zhun)中對(dui)(dui)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)(de)規定(ding)(ding)為(wei)：尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)中每孔(kong)中植(zhi)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲150根(gen)(gen),孔(kong)徑(jing)4.5mm,每孔(kong)間距7mm,每根(gen)(gen)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲直徑(jing)0.3mm；所(suo)用尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)(de)剛性大小要(yao)(yao)均勻(yun)一(yi)致：尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)刷(shua)(shua)面要(yao)(yao)求平(ping)整，在(zai)同一(yi)水平(ping)面上；尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)(de)有效高度可(ke)通過調(diao)節(jie)板(ban)上下調(diao)節(jie)，從而控制(zhi)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)(de)起(qi)毛效果。另外附(fu)錄A中增加了對(dui)(dui)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)調(diao)節(jie)的(de)(de)(de)描寫。作為(wei)對(dui)(dui)織物(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)主要(yao)(yao)作用的(de)(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua),標準(zhun)中對(dui)(dui)其的(de)(de)(de)規定(ding)(ding)太籠統,如尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)制(zhi)備材料尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)(de)剛性大小、新尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)(de)預磨參數(shu)、試(shi)驗(yan)用尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)(de)高度范圍(wei)等,這(zhe)些因素都對(dui)(dui)織物(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)性能產生很(hen)大影(ying)響。
尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)大(da)小(xiao)(xiao)對織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)起毛起球性(xing)(xing)(xing)能(neng)具有決定性(xing)(xing)(xing)影(ying)響。剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)較(jiao)大(da)的(de)尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)使(shi)得(de)尼(ni)龍(long)刷對織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)產生(sheng)較(jiao)大(da)作(zuo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)力,從(cong)而(er)(er)使(shi)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起球級數較(jiao)低：而(er)(er)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)較(jiao)小(xiao)(xiao)的(de)尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)使(shi)得(de)尼(ni)龍(long)刷對織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)產生(sheng)較(jiao)小(xiao)(xiao)作(zuo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)力,從(cong)而(er)(er)使(shi)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起球級數較(jiao)高。標準中(zhong)對尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)的(de)只提(ti)到尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)的(de)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)應均勻一(yi)致,而(er)(er)未(wei)詳(xiang)細規定尼(ni)龍(long)絲(si)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)值大(da)小(xiao)(xiao)。目(mu)前市場上(shang)銷(xiao)售的(de)圓(yuan)軌跡起毛起球試驗(yan)(yan)儀所配的(de)尼(ni)龍(long)刷來自不同的(de)加工廠家。全(quan)國各實驗(yan)(yan)室所用(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)設(she)備型號(hao)。廠家也不盡相同,尼(ni)龍(long)刷剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)值不統一(yi)，這對試驗(yan)(yan)結果的(de)精準性(xing)(xing)(xing)和(he)一(yi)致性(xing)(xing)(xing)造成嚴(yan)重影(ying)響。
剛出廠的新(xin)尼龍(long)刷(shua)由于尼龍(long)絲頭端(duan)形態不一致,有(you)尖銳端(duan)或凹陷不平端(duan),對(dui)織物起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)效(xiao)果的正(zheng)確評估會產生不利影(ying)響(xiang),所以正(zheng)式(shi)試(shi)驗(yan)前應進行預磨(mo)(mo)。而附錄A中對(dui)預磨(mo)(mo)的規定(ding)為(wei)：新(xin)尼龍(long)刷(shua)正(zheng)式(shi)試(shi)驗(yan)前應進行一定(ding)次(ci)數(shu)(shu)的預磨(mo)(mo)并用(yong)參照織物校核(he)。未詳細說明(ming)新(xin)尼龍(long)刷(shua)具體預磨(mo)(mo)參數(shu)(shu),如(ru)預磨(mo)(mo)材料、預磨(mo)(mo)載荷預磨(mo)(mo)次(ci)數(shu)(shu)等。也未規定(ding)具體用(yong)哪種參照織物校核(he),預磨(mo)(mo)后參照織物起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)效(xiao)果達(da)到幾級(ji)。
尼(ni)龍(long)(long)刷試驗有(you)(you)(you)效(xiao)高(gao)度(du)(du)對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)效(xiao)果也產生影響。有(you)(you)(you)效(xiao)高(gao)度(du)(du)高(gao)時(shi)(shi)(shi),尼(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)屈曲程度(du)(du)大(da),尼(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)束(shu)(shu)較(jiao)分散,相對(dui)運(yun)動時(shi)(shi)(shi)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)束(shu)(shu)與織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)相互作(zuo)(zuo)用力(li)小(xiao),使得(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)級數較(jiao)高(gao):有(you)(you)(you)效(xiao)高(gao)度(du)(du)低時(shi)(shi)(shi),尼(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)屈曲程度(du)(du)小(xiao),尼(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)束(shu)(shu)較(jiao)聚集,相對(dui)運(yun)動時(shi)(shi)(shi)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)束(shu)(shu)與織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)相互作(zuo)(zuo)用力(li)大(da)，使得(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)級數較(jiao)低。標準中(zhong)只(zhi)提到尼(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)高(gao)度(du)(du)應一致,可調節其有(you)(you)(you)效(xiao)高(gao)度(du)(du),但有(you)(you)(you)效(xiao)高(gao)度(du)(du)適宜范(fan)圍值未作(zuo)(zuo)規定(ding)(ding),這(zhe)亟(ji)須進(jin)一步(bu)統一規定(ding)(ding)。
3、結論
為確(que)保圓軌(gui)跡(ji)起毛(mao)起球(qiu)測(ce)試方法的嚴謹性和(he)精準性建議修訂(ding) GBT4802.1-2008 標準時增加(jia)以下內容
(1)補充對磨料(liao)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的預(yu)磨參數(shu)(織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)種類、預(yu)磨壓(ya)力、預(yu)磨次數(shu))規(gui)定和對更換舊織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨料(liao)的起(qi)球評價(jia)標準(zhun)參考織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的規(gui)定,統一標準(zhun)物(wu)(wu)質(zhi)和試驗參數(shu)。
(2)詳細規(gui)定(ding)泡沫塑料墊片單位(wei)面積質量、厚度(du)的上下允差(cha)范圍和硬度(du)大(da)小。
(3)對尼(ni)龍刷(shua)(shua)的制備材(cai)(cai)料(liao)尼(ni)龍絲(si)剛性值統一規(gui)定(ding)(ding)；補充對新尼(ni)龍刷(shua)(shua)預(yu)(yu)磨參(can)數(預(yu)(yu)磨材(cai)(cai)料(liao)、預(yu)(yu)磨載荷、預(yu)(yu)磨次數)的規(gui)定(ding)(ding),明確(que)校核參(can)照織物:對尼(ni)龍刷(shua)(shua)試驗有效高度加以規(gui)定(ding)(ding)。