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羊絨衫起球的原因分析及評定指標
時間：2020-05-10 08:31
羊(yang)(yang)絨衫以其非凡的(de)(de)風格和高雅(ya)的(de)(de)氣質(zhi)，深受(shou)廣大消費者的(de)(de)喜愛，但羊(yang)(yang)絨衫起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)問題普(pu)遍，嚴重困擾了消費者的(de)(de)使用(yong)。羊(yang)(yang)絨衫起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)與羊(yang)(yang)絨纖維特點(dian)、面(mian)料結構(gou)和消費者穿著習慣(guan)都有關系。國家標準規定(ding)，只要羊(yang)(yang)絨衫起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)等(deng)級不(bu)超過允許(xu)的(de)(de)范(fan)(fan)圍(wei)就是合格產品，即使質(zhi)量(liang)最上(shang)乘的(de)(de)羊(yang)(yang)絨衫，在剛開(kai)始穿著時也會在的(de)(de)適(shi)度的(de)(de)范(fan)(fan)圍(wei)內有輕微的(de)(de)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)現象。本文為您(nin)做(zuo)詳細(xi)分析(xi)。
一、羊絨(rong)衫(shan)起球的原因
1）纖維紗線
羊(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)細(xi)度(du)、長度(du)、卷曲(qu)是(shi)重要的(de)(de)(de)工藝特征，羊(yang)絨(rong)與羊(yang)毛(mao)相(xiang)比，首先是(shi)細(xi)度(du)小(xiao)、長度(du)短、卷曲(qu)數(shu)少，這樣(yang)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)在紗中抱(bao)合(he)力(li)小(xiao)，外露毛(mao)羽多，再(zai)加(jia)上纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)滑(hua)糯在外力(li)的(de)(de)(de)作用(yong)(yong)下從織(zhi)物(wu)中滑(hua)移而(er)產生掉絨(rong)起球。其次是(shi)其纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)縮(suo)絨(rong)性(xing)和磨擦(ca)系數(shu)均小(xiao)，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)間的(de)(de)(de)磨擦(ca)阻力(li)減少，但因羊(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)鱗(lin)片結構(gou)，使得羊(yang)絨(rong)純紡或是(shi)與羊(yang)毛(mao)混紡的(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)，羊(yang)絨(rong)易從織(zhi)物(wu)中滑(hua)移出來，當纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)集合(he)體受到無定向(xiang)(xiang)性(xing)外力(li)的(de)(de)(de)作用(yong)(yong)，逆鱗(lin)片受力(li)的(de)(de)(de)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)容易不斷向(xiang)(xiang)根(gen)部移運，產生掉絨(rong)，由于鱗(lin)片之間的(de)(de)(de)棘(ji)鎖和纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)體的(de)(de)(de)彈性(xing)，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)相(xiang)互交錯纏(chan)結起球，也引(yin)起了動物(wu)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)所特有的(de)(de)(de)氈縮(suo)。
羊(yang)絨纖(xian)維(wei)的(de)導電(dian)能力差，衣(yi)服在穿著時，纖(xian)維(wei)間互(hu)相磨(mo)擦(ca)，造(zao)成(cheng)電(dian)荷(he)在纖(xian)維(wei)聚集，產生(sheng)靜(jing)電(dian)現(xian)象，介電(dian)系數(shu)高的(de)纖(xian)維(wei)帶(dai)(dai)正電(dian)荷(he)，反之帶(dai)(dai)負(fu)電(dian)荷(he)。如化學纖(xian)維(wei)與(yu)羊(yang)絨磨(mo)擦(ca)時，化學纖(xian)維(wei)帶(dai)(dai)負(fu)電(dian)荷(he)，羊(yang)絨纖(xian)維(wei)帶(dai)(dai)正電(dian)荷(he)。不相同(tong)電(dian)荷(he)的(de)纖(xian)維(wei)之間相互(hu)吸引(yin)，易造(zao)成(cheng)織物掉絨起球，當天(tian)氣干燥時這種現(xian)象尤為嚴重。
纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)卷(juan)曲(qu)(qu)波形愈(yu)多，在加捻(nian)時，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)越(yue)不容易(yi)伸(shen)展，在摩(mo)擦過程中纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)容易(yi)松動滑(hua)(hua)移，在紗線(xian)表(biao)面形成毛茸。為(wei)此，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)卷(juan)曲(qu)(qu)性愈(yu)好(hao)，愈(yu)易(yi)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)。纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)愈(yu)細，顯露在紗線(xian)表(biao)面的(de)(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)頭端就多，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)柔軟性也愈(yu)好(hao)，因(yin)此細纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)比粗(cu)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)于糾纏起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)。而對(dui)于纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)長(chang)度來講，較(jiao)短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)比長(chang)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)于起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)，因(yin)游離(li)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)較(jiao)多，且短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)之間的(de)(de)摩(mo)擦力(li)(li)及抱合力(li)(li)均較(jiao)小，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)于滑(hua)(hua)到織物表(biao)面，也就容易(yi)產生起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)現象。
紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)的(de)捻度和表(biao)面光潔程度對(dui)起球也(ye)有較(jiao)大影(ying)響，捻度高的(de)紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)，纖維(wei)間的(de)抱(bao)合緊密，紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)在受到摩擦(ca)時，纖維(wei)從紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)內滑移相對(dui)少(shao)，起球現象減少(shao)；由于羊(yang)絨衫是柔軟性織(zhi)物(wu)，過(guo)高的(de)捻度會(hui)使織(zhi)物(wu)發硬，因此不(bu)能靠提高捻度來(lai)防止(zhi)起球。紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)光潔度的(de)影(ying)響，紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)越光潔，表(biao)面毛茸則短而少(shao)，所以光潔紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)不(bu)易起球。
2）織物(wu)組織結構
織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)組織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)結構(gou)(gou)疏松的織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)比結構(gou)(gou)緊(jin)密(mi)(mi)(mi)的織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)易(yi)(yi)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球，結構(gou)(gou)緊(jin)密(mi)(mi)(mi)的織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)與外界物(wu)(wu)體(ti)摩擦時(shi)，不易(yi)(yi)產生(sheng)毛(mao)(mao)茸，已(yi)經(jing)存在的毛(mao)(mao)茸，又由(you)于纖維之間的摩擦阻力(li)較大，而(er)不易(yi)(yi)滑(hua)到織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)表面來，故(gu)可減輕起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球現象。高(gao)機(ji)號織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)一般(ban)比較緊(jin)密(mi)(mi)(mi)，所以(yi)低機(ji)號織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)比高(gao)機(ji)號織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)易(yi)(yi)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球。表面平(ping)(ping)整的織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)不易(yi)(yi)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球，表面凹凸(tu)不平(ping)(ping)的織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)易(yi)(yi)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球。
3）染整工(gong)藝的影響
紗(sha)線或織(zhi)物經染(ran)(ran)(ran)色(se)及整理以(yi)(yi)后，對抗起球性將(jiang)產(chan)生較大影響(xiang)，這與染(ran)(ran)(ran)料、助(zhu)劑、染(ran)(ran)(ran)整工藝條件有關，以(yi)(yi)絞紗(sha)染(ran)(ran)(ran)色(se)的紗(sha)線比用(yong)散毛染(ran)(ran)(ran)色(se)或毛條染(ran)(ran)(ran)色(se)的紗(sha)線易起球；以(yi)(yi)成(cheng)衫(shan)染(ran)(ran)(ran)色(se)的織(zhi)物比紗(sha)線染(ran)(ran)(ran)色(se)所織(zhi)的織(zhi)物易起球；織(zhi)物經過(guo)定(ding)型，特別(bie)是經樹脂整理后，其(qi)抗起毛起球性將(jiang)大大增強。
4）穿著條件的影響(xiang)
起球現象需要(yao)從紡織品(pin)起球的(de)機理說起。羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)衫(shan)在(zai)穿(chuan)著過程中(zhong)，由于外罩（如外衣）施(shi)加的(de)摩擦等作用(yong)，紗線(xian)中(zhong)較(jiao)(jiao)短的(de)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)一端滑移出(chu)來，在(zai)織物(wu)表面相互纏(chan)結成球。而羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)比羊(yang)毛的(de)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)細而短，加上一般的(de)羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)衫(shan)為粗梳產品(pin)，羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)紗中(zhong)的(de)短纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)含量(liang)較(jiao)(jiao)高，更(geng)容易“呲”出(chu)來彼此纏(chan)結。
因此羊(yang)絨衫(shan)在(zai)內穿(chuan)時(shi)(shi)(shi)，與(yu)其配套的外(wai)衣里子最好是光(guang)滑的，不(bu)能(neng)太粗糙、堅硬，內袋(dai)勿裝硬物(wu)或插筆等，以免局部摩擦起球；在(zai)外(wai)穿(chuan)時(shi)(shi)(shi)，袖子與(yu)桌面、袖子與(yu)沙發扶手、背部與(yu)沙發等不(bu)要長時(shi)(shi)(shi)間摩擦。穿(chuan)著時(shi)(shi)(shi)間不(bu)宜太長，要注(zhu)意(yi)間歇、交替穿(chuan)著，使(shi)其恢(hui)復彈力，以免纖維疲勞(lao)損傷。
羊絨(rong)衫(shan)出(chu)現(xian)起球(qiu)現(xian)象之后(hou)，切忌(ji)用手生拉硬(ying)扯，正確(que)的(de)(de)方法是在洗(xi)滌后(hou)用剪刀(dao)將(jiang)起的(de)(de)絨(rong)球(qiu)輕(qing)輕(qing)地剪下，在經過幾次洗(xi)滌之后(hou)，隨(sui)著一些松散的(de)(de)纖維(wei)脫落，羊絨(rong)衫(shan)的(de)(de)起球(qiu)現(xian)象是會逐漸(jian)消失的(de)(de)。
二、羊絨衫起球的(de)評定
羊(yang)絨(rong)衫的(de)起(qi)球(qiu)測定方法主要采(cai)取(qu)GB/T 4802.3—2008《織物起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)性能的(de)測定第3部(bu)分起(qi)球(qiu)箱法》。產(chan)品(pin)(pin)標準有(you)FZ/T 73018—2012 《毛(mao)針(zhen)織品(pin)(pin)》和FZ/T 73009—2009《羊(yang)絨(rong)針(zhen)織品(pin)(pin)》，具體(ti)的(de)評定等級(ji)見(jian)表
表(biao)1羊絨(rong)衫起(qi)球評(ping)定指標
注：低于二(er)等品的為等外(wai)品。
