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對GB/T4802.1-2008《紡織品織物起毛起球性能的測定第1 部分：圓軌跡法》的研究
時間：19-06-25 09:14
織物(wu)在(zai)穿著過程(cheng)中由(you)于其內部(bu)(纖維(wei)種類、織物(wu)結構、后(hou)整(zheng)理等)和(he)(he)(he)外(wai)部(bu)(摩(mo)擦、勾絲等)原因,容易(yi)產生起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)的(de)(de)(de)不(bu)良(liang)現象,這嚴重影響了紡織服(fu)(fu)裝的(de)(de)(de)服(fu)(fu)用(yong)(yong)性(xing)(xing)能和(he)(he)(he)美觀性(xing)(xing)能。我(wo)國現行(xing)(xing)的(de)(de)(de)紡織服(fu)(fu)裝起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)測(ce)試(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)方法(fa)(fa)目(mu)前有(you)4種：圓(yuan)軌跡法(fa)(fa)、改型(xing)馬丁代爾法(fa)(fa)、起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)箱法(fa)(fa)和(he)(he)(he)隨即翻滾法(fa)(fa),對應方法(fa)(fa)標(biao)準(zhun)分別為 GBT4802.1—-2008、GBT4802.2—2008、GB/T4802.3—2008和(he)(he)(he) GBT4802.4——2009。據檢測(ce)機構統計,這幾種測(ce)試(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)方法(fa)(fa)中圓(yuan)軌跡起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)法(fa)(fa)使用(yong)(yong)較為頻繁。在(zai)所(suo)有(you)測(ce)試(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)方法(fa)(fa)中使用(yong)(yong)占比80%。在(zai)《針織運動服(fu)(fu)》《針織休(xiu)閑(xian)服(fu)(fu)》《單、夾服(fu)(fu)裝》《男西服(fu)(fu)》《針織T恤衫》等產品標(biao)準(zhun)中起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)測(ce)試(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)標(biao)準(zhun)均采用(yong)(yong)圓(yuan)軌跡法(fa)(fa)。由(you)此(ci)可見(jian),圓(yuan)軌跡法(fa)(fa)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)試(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)驗標(biao)準(zhun)的(de)(de)(de)系統、規范和(he)(he)(he)完整(zheng)對織物(wu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)性(xing)(xing)能評價的(de)(de)(de)準(zhun)確性(xing)(xing)至(zhi)關重要。本文(wen)對現行(xing)(xing) GBT4802.1-2008 圓(yuan)軌跡法(fa)(fa)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)檢測(ce)標(biao)準(zhun)中織物(wu)磨料、泡沫塑料墊片、尼龍刷等試(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)驗材料存在(zai)的(de)(de)(de)問題(ti)和(he)(he)(he)不(bu)足進行(xing)(xing)了分析和(he)(he)(he)研究,并提出一些意見(jian)和(he)(he)(he)建議。
1、起毛起球機理
在(zai)我們日(ri)常(chang)生(sheng)活(huo)中,紡(fang)織(zhi)品(pin)經(jing)常(chang)穿、用和洗(xi)滌(di).持續(xu)遭到外界和本(ben)身的(de)摩(mo)(mo)擦力和其他作用力,其表(biao)層的(de)纖(xian)維(wei)逐漸被拉出(chu)而凸出(chu)顯露,在(zai)紡(fang)織(zhi)品(pin)表(biao)面(mian)呈現很多(duo)碎(sui)小絨毛(mao)(mao)，這個(ge)過(guo)程(cheng)(cheng)為“起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)”：在(zai)不斷使(shi)用過(guo)程(cheng)(cheng)中絨毛(mao)(mao)未(wei)能從紡(fang)織(zhi)品(pin)表(biao)面(mian)隨即脫離,而彼此纏(chan)繞在(zai)一起(qi)(qi),形成許多(duo)致密的(de)球(qiu)形小粒(li),這個(ge)過(guo)程(cheng)(cheng)為“起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)”。圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)試驗采(cai)用尼龍刷和織(zhi)物磨料試驗材料抑或只用織(zhi)物磨料。按照規定方(fang)法(fa)(fa)和測試參(can)數,使(shi)試驗樣品(pin)摩(mo)(mo)擦發生(sheng)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu),再(zai)在(zai)評級(ji)箱(xiang)中定的(de)光源(yuan)照射條(tiao)件下,對(dui)織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)情況(kuang)做(zuo)視覺描述評級(ji)。作為主(zhu)要試驗材料的(de)織(zhi)物磨料，泡沫塑(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)和尼龍刷對(dui)織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)評定級(ji)數要重大影響。
2、影響因素
2.1 織物(wu)磨料(liao)
標準(zhun)(zhun)中(zhong)對(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)規定(ding)(ding)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)：材質為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)2201全毛(mao)華(hua)(hua)達(da)呢,織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)組織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)兩上兩下(xia)右(you)斜紋線密度(du)(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)19.6tex×2，捻度(du)(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei) Z625-S700，密度(du)(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei) 445根/10cm×244根/l0cm，單位面(mian)積質量為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei) 305g/m2。附錄A中(zhong)關于磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)的(de)更換(huan)規定(ding)(ding)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)：因長時間試驗(yan)(yan)(yan)會對(dui)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)造成磨(mo)損,為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)避(bi)免這種情(qing)況影響(xiang)試樣起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球程度(du)(du)的(de)正確判定(ding)(ding).作為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)的(de)2201華(hua)(hua)達(da)呢應(ying)定(ding)(ding)期進行校(xiao)驗(yan)(yan)(yan),新(xin)(xin)的(de)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)經(jing)過(guo)預(yu)磨(mo)后方可試驗(yan)(yan)(yan)：如(ru)果同一織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)采用新(xin)(xin)舊華(hua)(hua)達(da)呢磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)試驗(yan)(yan)(yan)所得起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球級(ji)數(shu)相差(cha)達(da)到(dao)半級(ji)以(yi)(yi)上,則應(ying)及(ji)時更換(huan)新(xin)(xin)的(de)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)。但(dan)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)在用于試驗(yan)(yan)(yan)前要經(jing)過(guo)怎樣具(ju)體參(can)數(shu)的(de)預(yu)磨(mo)才(cai)能正式(shi)使用未(wei)點明：不同類型織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球等(deng)級(ji)也(ye)相差(cha)很(hen)多,新(xin)(xin)舊華(hua)(hua)達(da)呢磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)級(ji)數(shu)相差(cha)半級(ji)以(yi)(yi)上,具(ju)體以(yi)(yi)哪種標準(zhun)(zhun)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)參(can)考、選取哪種試驗(yan)(yan)(yan)參(can)數(shu),也(ye)未(wei)清晰規定(ding)(ding)。在JF(紡(fang)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi))031—2013《織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球儀(yi)(圓軌跡法(fa))校(xiao)準(zhun)(zhun)規范》中(zhong)對(dui)于儀(yi)器的(de)校(xiao)準(zhun)(zhun)項目(mu)和校(xiao)準(zhun)(zhun)方法(fa)中(zhong)也(ye)未(wei)提到(dao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)檢查(cha)。這些漏洞(dong)可能會對(dui)實驗(yan)(yan)(yan)室起(qi)(qi)球級(ji)數(shu)評定(ding)(ding)準(zhun)(zhun)確性產生影響(xiang)。
建議標準中補(bu)充(chong)對(dui)(dui)磨(mo)料(liao)織物(wu)的預(yu)磨(mo)參數規定,如用什么標準類(lei)型織物(wu)在多少(shao)壓(ya)力(li)條(tiao)件下(xia)預(yu)磨(mo)多少(shao)次：補(bu)充(chong)對(dui)(dui)更換舊織物(wu)磨(mo)料(liao)的起球(qiu)評價標準參考織物(wu)的規定,統(tong)一標準物(wu)質和(he)試驗參數。
2.2 泡(pao)沫(mo)塑料墊片
標準中對泡(pao)(pao)沫(mo)塑(su)料墊片(pian)的規定為(wei)：墊片(pian)直徑、厚(hou)度、單(dan)位面積質量分別約為(wei) 105mm、8mm、270g/m2。只模糊規定了各參(can)數(shu)大約值(zhi)，未詳細規定其上下允差,這(zhe)使得各檢測機構試驗用泡(pao)(pao)沫(mo)塑(su)料墊片(pian)密度、硬度、厚(hou)度等(deng)不統一，從而影響試驗結(jie)果(guo)精準性(xing)。
蘇丹霞(xia)研究了泡沫塑(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)的厚度(du)(du)(du)(du)和硬(ying)度(du)(du)(du)(du)對織物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)結(jie)(jie)果的影響(xiang)，結(jie)(jie)果表(biao)明(ming)同一硬(ying)度(du)(du)(du)(du)條(tiao)件下，不(bu)同厚度(du)(du)(du)(du)的塑(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)使得(de)織物起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級(ji)(ji)可相(xiang)差(cha)一級(ji)(ji)；同一厚度(du)(du)(du)(du)條(tiao)件下，不(bu)同硬(ying)度(du)(du)(du)(du)的塑(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)制得(de)織物起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級(ji)(ji)可相(xiang)差(cha)半(ban)級(ji)(ji)。董躍(yue)研究了泡沫塑(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)的表(biao)觀(guan)密(mi)度(du)(du)(du)(du)對織物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)結(jie)(jie)果的影響(xiang)，結(jie)(jie)果表(biao)明(ming)不(bu)同表(biao)觀(guan)密(mi)度(du)(du)(du)(du)的塑(su)料墊(dian)片(pian)對化學(xue)短纖混紡織物起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級(ji)(ji)產生較大影響(xiang)，可使其起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)等(deng)級(ji)(ji)相(xiang)差(cha)一級(ji)(ji)。
由此可見(jian),泡沫塑料墊片約(yue)定寬松的(de)參數(shu)會對試驗結果(guo)產生(sheng)較(jiao)大影響,建議制定嚴格的(de)參數(shu)設置,詳細規定其單位面(mian)積(ji)質量，厚(hou)度的(de)上(shang)下允差范(fan)圍和硬(ying)度大小。
2.3 尼龍刷(shua)
標準(zhun)中對(dui)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)規(gui)定為：尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)中每(mei)孔中植尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)150根,孔徑4.5mm,每(mei)孔間(jian)距7mm,每(mei)根尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)直徑0.3mm；所用(yong)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)的(de)(de)剛(gang)性大(da)小要均勻一致(zhi)：尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)刷(shua)(shua)面要求(qiu)平(ping)整，在同(tong)一水平(ping)面上；尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)的(de)(de)有效高度可通過(guo)調節(jie)板上下調節(jie)，從而(er)控制尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)起(qi)毛(mao)效果。另外附(fu)錄(lu)A中增加了對(dui)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)調節(jie)的(de)(de)描寫。作為對(dui)織物起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)主要作用(yong)的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua),標準(zhun)中對(dui)其的(de)(de)規(gui)定太籠統,如尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)制備材料尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)的(de)(de)剛(gang)性大(da)小、新尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)預磨(mo)參數、試驗用(yong)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)高度范圍等,這(zhe)些因素都對(dui)織物起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球性能產生很大(da)影響。
尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)大(da)小(xiao)對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球性(xing)(xing)能具有決(jue)定性(xing)(xing)影響。剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)較(jiao)大(da)的(de)(de)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲使(shi)得(de)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)產生(sheng)較(jiao)大(da)作用力,從而(er)使(shi)織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)球級數(shu)較(jiao)低(di)：而(er)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)較(jiao)小(xiao)的(de)(de)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲使(shi)得(de)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)產生(sheng)較(jiao)小(xiao)作用力,從而(er)使(shi)織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)球級數(shu)較(jiao)高。標準中對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)只提(ti)到尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)應均勻(yun)一(yi)致(zhi)(zhi),而(er)未詳細(xi)規定尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)值大(da)小(xiao)。目(mu)前市場上(shang)銷售的(de)(de)圓軌跡起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球試(shi)(shi)驗儀所配的(de)(de)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)來自不同的(de)(de)加工(gong)廠家。全國各實(shi)驗室所用的(de)(de)設備型號。廠家也不盡相同,尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)值不統一(yi)，這對(dui)(dui)(dui)(dui)試(shi)(shi)驗結(jie)果的(de)(de)精準性(xing)(xing)和一(yi)致(zhi)(zhi)性(xing)(xing)造成嚴重影響。
剛出廠(chang)的新尼龍刷由(you)于(yu)尼龍絲頭端形(xing)態不一致,有尖銳端或(huo)凹陷不平端,對(dui)織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)效(xiao)果的正(zheng)確評估會產生不利影響,所以(yi)正(zheng)式(shi)試(shi)驗(yan)(yan)前(qian)應(ying)進(jin)行(xing)預(yu)磨(mo)。而附(fu)錄(lu)A中對(dui)預(yu)磨(mo)的規(gui)(gui)定為：新尼龍刷正(zheng)式(shi)試(shi)驗(yan)(yan)前(qian)應(ying)進(jin)行(xing)一定次數(shu)的預(yu)磨(mo)并用參照織(zhi)物校核。未詳(xiang)細說明(ming)新尼龍刷具體(ti)預(yu)磨(mo)參數(shu),如預(yu)磨(mo)材料、預(yu)磨(mo)載荷預(yu)磨(mo)次數(shu)等。也未規(gui)(gui)定具體(ti)用哪種參照織(zhi)物校核,預(yu)磨(mo)后(hou)參照織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)效(xiao)果達到幾級。
尼龍(long)(long)刷試(shi)驗有(you)效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度對(dui)織物(wu)起毛起球(qiu)效(xiao)(xiao)果也產生影響(xiang)。有(you)效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度高(gao)時(shi)(shi),尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)屈(qu)曲(qu)程度大,尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)束(shu)(shu)較分散,相對(dui)運(yun)動時(shi)(shi)尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)束(shu)(shu)與織物(wu)相互(hu)作用力小,使得(de)織物(wu)起球(qiu)級(ji)數較高(gao):有(you)效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度低時(shi)(shi),尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)屈(qu)曲(qu)程度小,尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)束(shu)(shu)較聚集,相對(dui)運(yun)動時(shi)(shi)尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)束(shu)(shu)與織物(wu)相互(hu)作用力大，使得(de)織物(wu)起球(qiu)級(ji)數較低。標準中(zhong)只提(ti)到尼龍(long)(long)絲(si)高(gao)度應一(yi)致,可調(diao)節其有(you)效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度,但有(you)效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度適宜(yi)范(fan)圍(wei)值未作規定,這亟須進一(yi)步統(tong)一(yi)規定。
3、結(jie)論
為確保圓(yuan)軌跡起毛起球測試方法的嚴謹(jin)性和精準性建議修訂 GBT4802.1-2008 標(biao)準時增(zeng)加以下內(nei)容
(1)補充對(dui)磨(mo)料織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的預磨(mo)參(can)數(shu)(織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)種(zhong)類、預磨(mo)壓力(li)、預磨(mo)次數(shu))規(gui)定(ding)和對(dui)更換舊織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料的起球評價標準參(can)考織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的規(gui)定(ding),統一標準物(wu)(wu)質和試(shi)驗參(can)數(shu)。
(2)詳(xiang)細規定泡沫(mo)塑料(liao)墊片單位面積(ji)質(zhi)量(liang)、厚度的(de)上下(xia)允差范(fan)圍和(he)硬度大小。
(3)對尼(ni)龍(long)(long)刷的制備材料尼(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)剛性(xing)值(zhi)統一規(gui)(gui)定(ding)；補充對新尼(ni)龍(long)(long)刷預磨(mo)參數(預磨(mo)材料、預磨(mo)載荷、預磨(mo)次數)的規(gui)(gui)定(ding),明確(que)校核(he)參照(zhao)織物:對尼(ni)龍(long)(long)刷試(shi)驗有效高度(du)加以規(gui)(gui)定(ding)。