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對GB/T4802.1-2008《紡織品織物起毛起球性能的測定第1 部分：圓軌跡法》的研究
時間：19-06-25 09:14
織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)在(zai)穿(chuan)著過程中由(you)于其內部(纖(xian)維種(zhong)類、織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)結構(gou)、后(hou)整(zheng)理等(deng))和(he)(he)(he)外部(摩(mo)擦、勾絲等(deng))原因,容易(yi)產生(sheng)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)的(de)不良(liang)現象,這嚴重影響了紡織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)服(fu)(fu)(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)的(de)服(fu)(fu)(fu)(fu)用(yong)性能和(he)(he)(he)美觀性能。我(wo)國現行的(de)紡織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)服(fu)(fu)(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)測(ce)(ce)試(shi)方法目前有4種(zhong)：圓(yuan)軌(gui)(gui)跡(ji)法、改型馬丁代爾法、起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)箱法和(he)(he)(he)隨即翻滾法,對(dui)(dui)應方法標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)(zhun)分別(bie)為 GBT4802.1—-2008、GBT4802.2—2008、GB/T4802.3—2008和(he)(he)(he) GBT4802.4——2009。據檢(jian)測(ce)(ce)機構(gou)統(tong)計,這幾種(zhong)測(ce)(ce)試(shi)方法中圓(yuan)軌(gui)(gui)跡(ji)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)法使用(yong)較為頻繁。在(zai)所有測(ce)(ce)試(shi)方法中使用(yong)占(zhan)比80%。在(zai)《針(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)運動(dong)服(fu)(fu)(fu)(fu)》《針(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)休閑服(fu)(fu)(fu)(fu)》《單、夾服(fu)(fu)(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)》《男西(xi)服(fu)(fu)(fu)(fu)》《針(zhen)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)T恤(xu)衫》等(deng)產品標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)(zhun)中起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)測(ce)(ce)試(shi)標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)(zhun)均采(cai)用(yong)圓(yuan)軌(gui)(gui)跡(ji)法。由(you)此可見(jian),圓(yuan)軌(gui)(gui)跡(ji)法起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)試(shi)驗標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)(zhun)的(de)系統(tong)、規范和(he)(he)(he)完整(zheng)對(dui)(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)性能評價的(de)準(zhun)(zhun)(zhun)確(que)性至關重要。本文對(dui)(dui)現行 GBT4802.1-2008 圓(yuan)軌(gui)(gui)跡(ji)法起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)檢(jian)測(ce)(ce)標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)(zhun)中織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨料、泡沫塑料墊片、尼龍刷(shua)等(deng)試(shi)驗材料存在(zai)的(de)問(wen)題和(he)(he)(he)不足進行了分析(xi)和(he)(he)(he)研究,并提(ti)出(chu)一些意見(jian)和(he)(he)(he)建議(yi)。
1、起(qi)毛起(qi)球機理(li)
在我們日常生活中(zhong)(zhong),紡織品經(jing)常穿(chuan)、用(yong)和(he)(he)(he)洗(xi)滌(di).持續遭到外界和(he)(he)(he)本身的摩擦力和(he)(he)(he)其(qi)他作用(yong)力,其(qi)表(biao)層的纖維(wei)逐漸被拉出而(er)凸出顯露,在紡織品表(biao)面呈現(xian)很多碎小(xiao)絨毛(mao)，這(zhe)個過程(cheng)為(wei)“起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)”：在不斷使用(yong)過程(cheng)中(zhong)(zhong)絨毛(mao)未能從(cong)紡織品表(biao)面隨即(ji)脫離,而(er)彼此纏繞在一起(qi)(qi),形成許(xu)多致密的球(qiu)形小(xiao)粒,這(zhe)個過程(cheng)為(wei)“起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)”。圓(yuan)軌跡(ji)法(fa)試(shi)驗采用(yong)尼龍刷和(he)(he)(he)織物(wu)磨料(liao)(liao)試(shi)驗材(cai)料(liao)(liao)抑或(huo)只用(yong)織物(wu)磨料(liao)(liao)。按照(zhao)(zhao)規定方法(fa)和(he)(he)(he)測試(shi)參數,使試(shi)驗樣(yang)品摩擦發生起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu),再在評(ping)級(ji)箱中(zhong)(zhong)定的光源照(zhao)(zhao)射條件下,對(dui)織物(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)情況做(zuo)視覺(jue)描述評(ping)級(ji)。作為(wei)主要試(shi)驗材(cai)料(liao)(liao)的織物(wu)磨料(liao)(liao)，泡沫塑料(liao)(liao)墊(dian)片和(he)(he)(he)尼龍刷對(dui)織物(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)評(ping)定級(ji)數要重(zhong)大影響。
2、影響因素(su)
2.1 織(zhi)物磨料
標準(zhun)中(zhong)對(dui)(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)(de)規(gui)(gui)定(ding)為(wei)(wei)(wei)：材質(zhi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)2201全(quan)毛華(hua)達(da)呢(ni)(ni),織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)組(zu)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)兩上(shang)兩下右(you)斜紋線密(mi)度(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei)19.6tex×2，捻度(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei) Z625-S700，密(mi)度(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei) 445根(gen)/10cm×244根(gen)/l0cm，單(dan)位面(mian)積質(zhi)量為(wei)(wei)(wei) 305g/m2。附(fu)錄A中(zhong)關于磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)(de)更(geng)換(huan)規(gui)(gui)定(ding)為(wei)(wei)(wei)：因長時間試(shi)驗(yan)會對(dui)(dui)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)造成磨(mo)(mo)損,為(wei)(wei)(wei)避免這(zhe)種情況影(ying)響試(shi)樣(yang)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)(qi)球程度(du)的(de)(de)(de)正(zheng)確(que)判(pan)定(ding).作為(wei)(wei)(wei)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)(de)2201華(hua)達(da)呢(ni)(ni)應定(ding)期進行(xing)校(xiao)驗(yan),新(xin)的(de)(de)(de)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)經過(guo)預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)后方可試(shi)驗(yan)：如果(guo)同一織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)采用(yong)新(xin)舊華(hua)達(da)呢(ni)(ni)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)試(shi)驗(yan)所得(de)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)(qi)球級(ji)(ji)數相差(cha)達(da)到半(ban)(ban)級(ji)(ji)以(yi)(yi)上(shang),則應及時更(geng)換(huan)新(xin)的(de)(de)(de)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)。但織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)在(zai)用(yong)于試(shi)驗(yan)前要經過(guo)怎(zen)樣(yang)具體(ti)參數的(de)(de)(de)預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)才(cai)能(neng)正(zheng)式(shi)使用(yong)未點明：不同類型織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)(qi)球等級(ji)(ji)也相差(cha)很多,新(xin)舊華(hua)達(da)呢(ni)(ni)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)級(ji)(ji)數相差(cha)半(ban)(ban)級(ji)(ji)以(yi)(yi)上(shang),具體(ti)以(yi)(yi)哪種標準(zhun)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)參考、選取哪種試(shi)驗(yan)參數,也未清晰規(gui)(gui)定(ding)。在(zai)JF(紡(fang)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi))031—2013《織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)(qi)球儀(圓(yuan)軌跡法(fa))校(xiao)準(zhun)規(gui)(gui)范》中(zhong)對(dui)(dui)于儀器(qi)的(de)(de)(de)校(xiao)準(zhun)項目和(he)校(xiao)準(zhun)方法(fa)中(zhong)也未提(ti)到織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)(de)檢查。這(zhe)些漏洞(dong)可能(neng)會對(dui)(dui)實驗(yan)室起(qi)(qi)(qi)球級(ji)(ji)數評定(ding)準(zhun)確(que)性產生(sheng)影(ying)響。
建(jian)議標(biao)準中補充(chong)對(dui)(dui)磨(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)預磨(mo)參數(shu)規定(ding),如用(yong)什么標(biao)準類(lei)型織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)在多(duo)少壓力(li)條件(jian)下預磨(mo)多(duo)少次：補充(chong)對(dui)(dui)更換舊(jiu)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)料的(de)(de)起球評價標(biao)準參考織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)規定(ding),統一(yi)標(biao)準物(wu)質和試驗參數(shu)。
2.2 泡(pao)沫塑(su)料墊片
標準中對泡沫塑(su)(su)料墊片的(de)規定(ding)為：墊片直徑、厚度、單位面積質(zhi)量分別約為 105mm、8mm、270g/m2。只(zhi)模(mo)糊規定(ding)了各參數大約值，未(wei)詳(xiang)細規定(ding)其上下允差,這使得各檢測機構試(shi)驗用泡沫塑(su)(su)料墊片密度、硬度、厚度等(deng)不(bu)統(tong)一，從而(er)影(ying)響(xiang)試(shi)驗結果精準性。
蘇丹霞研(yan)究了(le)泡沫塑(su)(su)料墊(dian)(dian)片的厚度(du)和硬度(du)對織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球結(jie)果(guo)(guo)的影響，結(jie)果(guo)(guo)表明同(tong)(tong)一硬度(du)條件(jian)下，不(bu)同(tong)(tong)厚度(du)的塑(su)(su)料墊(dian)(dian)片使(shi)得織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)球等(deng)(deng)級可相差一級；同(tong)(tong)一厚度(du)條件(jian)下，不(bu)同(tong)(tong)硬度(du)的塑(su)(su)料墊(dian)(dian)片制得織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)球等(deng)(deng)級可相差半級。董躍研(yan)究了(le)泡沫塑(su)(su)料墊(dian)(dian)片的表觀(guan)密(mi)度(du)對織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球結(jie)果(guo)(guo)的影響，結(jie)果(guo)(guo)表明不(bu)同(tong)(tong)表觀(guan)密(mi)度(du)的塑(su)(su)料墊(dian)(dian)片對化(hua)學短纖混紡(fang)織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)球等(deng)(deng)級產生較大(da)影響，可使(shi)其起(qi)(qi)球等(deng)(deng)級相差一級。
由此(ci)可見,泡沫(mo)塑料(liao)墊片約定(ding)寬松(song)的(de)(de)參數會對試驗結果產生較大(da)影響,建議制定(ding)嚴格的(de)(de)參數設(she)置,詳細規(gui)定(ding)其(qi)單位面積(ji)質量，厚度的(de)(de)上下允(yun)差(cha)范圍和硬度大(da)小。
2.3 尼龍刷(shua)
標準中(zhong)對(dui)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)的(de)(de)(de)(de)規定為：尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)中(zhong)每(mei)孔中(zhong)植尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)150根,孔徑(jing)4.5mm,每(mei)孔間距7mm,每(mei)根尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)直徑(jing)0.3mm；所用(yong)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)的(de)(de)(de)(de)剛(gang)性大小(xiao)(xiao)要均(jun)勻一(yi)致：尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)刷(shua)面(mian)要求平整，在同一(yi)水平面(mian)上；尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)的(de)(de)(de)(de)有效高(gao)(gao)度(du)可(ke)通過調節(jie)板上下調節(jie)，從(cong)而(er)控制尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)的(de)(de)(de)(de)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)效果。另(ling)外附錄A中(zhong)增加了對(dui)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)調節(jie)的(de)(de)(de)(de)描(miao)寫。作為對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)主(zhu)要作用(yong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua),標準中(zhong)對(dui)其的(de)(de)(de)(de)規定太籠(long)統,如(ru)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)制備材料尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)的(de)(de)(de)(de)剛(gang)性大小(xiao)(xiao)、新尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)的(de)(de)(de)(de)預(yu)磨參(can)數、試驗用(yong)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)的(de)(de)(de)(de)高(gao)(gao)度(du)范圍等(deng),這些因素都對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)球性能產生很(hen)大影(ying)響。
尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)大(da)小對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)的(de)(de)起毛(mao)起球(qiu)性(xing)(xing)能(neng)具有決定(ding)性(xing)(xing)影(ying)響。剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)較(jiao)(jiao)大(da)的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)使(shi)得尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)產(chan)生較(jiao)(jiao)大(da)作用力,從(cong)而(er)(er)使(shi)織(zhi)物(wu)起球(qiu)級數較(jiao)(jiao)低：而(er)(er)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)較(jiao)(jiao)小的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)使(shi)得尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)產(chan)生較(jiao)(jiao)小作用力,從(cong)而(er)(er)使(shi)織(zhi)物(wu)起球(qiu)級數較(jiao)(jiao)高。標準中(zhong)對(dui)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)的(de)(de)只提到(dao)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)的(de)(de)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)應(ying)均(jun)勻(yun)一(yi)致,而(er)(er)未(wei)詳細規定(ding)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)值大(da)小。目前市場(chang)上銷售的(de)(de)圓軌跡起毛(mao)起球(qiu)試驗儀所(suo)配(pei)的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)來自不(bu)同的(de)(de)加工廠家(jia)。全國各實驗室所(suo)用的(de)(de)設(she)備型號。廠家(jia)也不(bu)盡相(xiang)同,尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)值不(bu)統(tong)一(yi)，這對(dui)試驗結果(guo)的(de)(de)精(jing)準性(xing)(xing)和一(yi)致性(xing)(xing)造成嚴(yan)重影(ying)響。
剛出(chu)廠的(de)(de)新(xin)尼(ni)龍(long)刷由(you)于尼(ni)龍(long)絲頭端(duan)形態(tai)不(bu)(bu)一致,有尖銳端(duan)或凹陷(xian)不(bu)(bu)平(ping)端(duan),對織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球效果的(de)(de)正確評估會產生不(bu)(bu)利影(ying)響(xiang),所以正式(shi)試(shi)(shi)驗前(qian)應進(jin)行(xing)預(yu)磨。而附錄A中對預(yu)磨的(de)(de)規定(ding)為：新(xin)尼(ni)龍(long)刷正式(shi)試(shi)(shi)驗前(qian)應進(jin)行(xing)一定(ding)次數(shu)的(de)(de)預(yu)磨并用(yong)參照(zhao)織物(wu)(wu)校(xiao)核(he)。未詳細說明新(xin)尼(ni)龍(long)刷具體預(yu)磨參數(shu),如預(yu)磨材(cai)料、預(yu)磨載荷(he)預(yu)磨次數(shu)等。也未規定(ding)具體用(yong)哪種參照(zhao)織物(wu)(wu)校(xiao)核(he),預(yu)磨后參照(zhao)織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球效果達到(dao)幾(ji)級。
尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷試驗有(you)效(xiao)高(gao)(gao)度對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)效(xiao)果也產生影響。有(you)效(xiao)高(gao)(gao)度高(gao)(gao)時,尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)屈曲程(cheng)度大,尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)束較(jiao)(jiao)分散,相對(dui)運(yun)動時尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)束與(yu)織(zhi)物(wu)相互作用力(li)小,使(shi)得(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)球(qiu)級數較(jiao)(jiao)高(gao)(gao):有(you)效(xiao)高(gao)(gao)度低(di)時,尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)屈曲程(cheng)度小,尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)束較(jiao)(jiao)聚集,相對(dui)運(yun)動時尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)束與(yu)織(zhi)物(wu)相互作用力(li)大，使(shi)得(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)球(qiu)級數較(jiao)(jiao)低(di)。標準中只(zhi)提到尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)高(gao)(gao)度應一致,可調節其有(you)效(xiao)高(gao)(gao)度,但有(you)效(xiao)高(gao)(gao)度適(shi)宜范圍值未作規定,這(zhe)亟須進一步統一規定。
3、結論
為確保圓軌跡起毛起球測(ce)試方法的嚴謹性(xing)和精準性(xing)建(jian)議(yi)修訂 GBT4802.1-2008 標準時增加以下內容
(1)補充對磨(mo)料織(zhi)物的(de)預磨(mo)參數(織(zhi)物種(zhong)類、預磨(mo)壓力、預磨(mo)次數)規定(ding)(ding)和對更換舊(jiu)織(zhi)物磨(mo)料的(de)起球評價標(biao)準參考織(zhi)物的(de)規定(ding)(ding),統一標(biao)準物質(zhi)和試驗參數。
(2)詳細(xi)規定泡(pao)沫塑(su)料墊片單位面積質量、厚度的(de)上下允差范圍和(he)硬(ying)度大(da)小。
(3)對(dui)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)的制備材(cai)料尼(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)剛性值(zhi)統一(yi)規定；補(bu)充對(dui)新尼(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)預磨參(can)(can)數(shu)(預磨材(cai)料、預磨載荷、預磨次數(shu))的規定,明(ming)確校核參(can)(can)照織物:對(dui)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)試驗有效高度加以規定。