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對GB/T4802.1-2008《紡織品織物起毛起球性能的測定第1 部分：圓軌跡法》的研究
時間：19-06-25 09:14
織物在(zai)穿著過程中(zhong)(zhong)由(you)(you)于其(qi)內部(纖(xian)維種類、織物結構(gou)、后(hou)整理等(deng))和外(wai)部(摩擦、勾絲等(deng))原因,容易產(chan)生起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)的(de)(de)不良現(xian)象,這嚴重影響(xiang)了紡織服(fu)裝的(de)(de)服(fu)用(yong)(yong)性(xing)能和美(mei)觀性(xing)能。我國(guo)現(xian)行(xing)的(de)(de)紡織服(fu)裝起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)測試(shi)(shi)方(fang)(fang)法(fa)目前有(you)4種：圓軌(gui)跡(ji)(ji)(ji)法(fa)、改(gai)型馬丁(ding)代(dai)爾法(fa)、起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)箱(xiang)法(fa)和隨即(ji)翻滾法(fa),對(dui)應方(fang)(fang)法(fa)標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)分(fen)(fen)別為(wei) GBT4802.1—-2008、GBT4802.2—2008、GB/T4802.3—2008和 GBT4802.4——2009。據檢測機構(gou)統計,這幾種測試(shi)(shi)方(fang)(fang)法(fa)中(zhong)(zhong)圓軌(gui)跡(ji)(ji)(ji)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)法(fa)使用(yong)(yong)較(jiao)為(wei)頻繁。在(zai)所有(you)測試(shi)(shi)方(fang)(fang)法(fa)中(zhong)(zhong)使用(yong)(yong)占比(bi)80%。在(zai)《針織運動服(fu)》《針織休閑服(fu)》《單(dan)、夾服(fu)裝》《男西(xi)服(fu)》《針織T恤衫》等(deng)產(chan)品標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)中(zhong)(zhong)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)測試(shi)(shi)標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)均(jun)采用(yong)(yong)圓軌(gui)跡(ji)(ji)(ji)法(fa)。由(you)(you)此(ci)可(ke)見,圓軌(gui)跡(ji)(ji)(ji)法(fa)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)的(de)(de)系統、規范(fan)和完整對(dui)織物起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)性(xing)能評價的(de)(de)準(zhun)(zhun)確性(xing)至(zhi)關重要。本文(wen)對(dui)現(xian)行(xing) GBT4802.1-2008 圓軌(gui)跡(ji)(ji)(ji)法(fa)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)檢測標(biao)(biao)準(zhun)(zhun)中(zhong)(zhong)織物磨(mo)料(liao)、泡沫塑料(liao)墊片、尼龍刷等(deng)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)材料(liao)存在(zai)的(de)(de)問題和不足進行(xing)了分(fen)(fen)析和研究,并提出一些意見和建議。
1、起毛起球機理
在(zai)(zai)我們日常生活中(zhong),紡織品經常穿(chuan)、用(yong)(yong)和(he)(he)洗滌.持續遭到外界和(he)(he)本身(shen)的摩(mo)擦力和(he)(he)其他作(zuo)用(yong)(yong)力,其表層的纖維逐漸被拉出而(er)凸(tu)出顯露,在(zai)(zai)紡織品表面呈現很(hen)多(duo)碎小絨毛(mao)，這個過(guo)(guo)程(cheng)(cheng)為(wei)“起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)”：在(zai)(zai)不(bu)斷使(shi)用(yong)(yong)過(guo)(guo)程(cheng)(cheng)中(zhong)絨毛(mao)未能從紡織品表面隨即脫離(li),而(er)彼此纏繞在(zai)(zai)一(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi),形成許(xu)多(duo)致(zhi)密的球(qiu)(qiu)形小粒,這個過(guo)(guo)程(cheng)(cheng)為(wei)“起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)”。圓軌跡(ji)法試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)采用(yong)(yong)尼(ni)龍刷(shua)和(he)(he)織物磨(mo)料(liao)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)材料(liao)抑或只用(yong)(yong)織物磨(mo)料(liao)。按照(zhao)規定方(fang)法和(he)(he)測試(shi)(shi)參數,使(shi)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)樣品摩(mo)擦發生起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu),再在(zai)(zai)評級箱中(zhong)定的光(guang)源照(zhao)射條(tiao)件(jian)下,對(dui)織物起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)情況做視覺描述評級。作(zuo)為(wei)主要試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)材料(liao)的織物磨(mo)料(liao)，泡沫塑料(liao)墊片和(he)(he)尼(ni)龍刷(shua)對(dui)織物起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)評定級數要重大影響。
2、影響因素
2.1 織物磨料(liao)
標準(zhun)中(zhong)對織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料的(de)規定(ding)為(wei)(wei)：材(cai)質(zhi)為(wei)(wei)2201全毛(mao)華(hua)(hua)達(da)呢(ni),織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)組織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)為(wei)(wei)兩上(shang)兩下右斜紋線密(mi)度為(wei)(wei)19.6tex×2，捻度為(wei)(wei) Z625-S700，密(mi)度為(wei)(wei) 445根/10cm×244根/l0cm，單位面積質(zhi)量為(wei)(wei) 305g/m2。附錄A中(zhong)關于磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)更換規定(ding)為(wei)(wei)：因長時間試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)會對磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)造成磨(mo)(mo)(mo)損,為(wei)(wei)避免這(zhe)(zhe)種(zhong)情況(kuang)影(ying)響試(shi)(shi)樣起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)程度的(de)正確(que)(que)判定(ding).作為(wei)(wei)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)2201華(hua)(hua)達(da)呢(ni)應定(ding)期進行(xing)校(xiao)驗(yan)(yan),新(xin)的(de)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)經過(guo)預磨(mo)(mo)(mo)后方(fang)可(ke)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)：如果同(tong)一織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)采用新(xin)舊華(hua)(hua)達(da)呢(ni)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)所得起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)級數(shu)(shu)(shu)相差達(da)到半(ban)級以上(shang),則應及(ji)時更換新(xin)的(de)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)。但(dan)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料在(zai)用于試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)前要(yao)經過(guo)怎(zen)樣具(ju)體參數(shu)(shu)(shu)的(de)預磨(mo)(mo)(mo)才能正式使用未(wei)點明：不同(tong)類(lei)型織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)等級也(ye)相差很多,新(xin)舊華(hua)(hua)達(da)呢(ni)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料級數(shu)(shu)(shu)相差半(ban)級以上(shang),具(ju)體以哪種(zhong)標準(zhun)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)為(wei)(wei)參考、選取(qu)哪種(zhong)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)參數(shu)(shu)(shu),也(ye)未(wei)清晰規定(ding)。在(zai)JF(紡織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi))031—2013《織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)儀(yi)(圓軌(gui)跡(ji)法)校(xiao)準(zhun)規范》中(zhong)對于儀(yi)器的(de)校(xiao)準(zhun)項目(mu)和校(xiao)準(zhun)方(fang)法中(zhong)也(ye)未(wei)提(ti)到織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)料的(de)檢(jian)查。這(zhe)(zhe)些(xie)漏洞可(ke)能會對實(shi)驗(yan)(yan)室起(qi)球(qiu)級數(shu)(shu)(shu)評定(ding)準(zhun)確(que)(que)性產生影(ying)響。
建議標(biao)準(zhun)中補充對磨(mo)料織物的(de)預磨(mo)參(can)數(shu)規(gui)(gui)定,如用什么標(biao)準(zhun)類(lei)型織物在多少壓力條件下預磨(mo)多少次：補充對更換舊織物磨(mo)料的(de)起球評(ping)價標(biao)準(zhun)參(can)考織物的(de)規(gui)(gui)定,統(tong)一標(biao)準(zhun)物質和試(shi)驗參(can)數(shu)。
2.2 泡沫塑料墊片
標(biao)準中對泡(pao)沫(mo)塑(su)(su)料墊片(pian)(pian)的規(gui)(gui)定(ding)為：墊片(pian)(pian)直徑、厚度、單位面積質(zhi)量分別約為 105mm、8mm、270g/m2。只模糊(hu)規(gui)(gui)定(ding)了各參數(shu)大約值，未詳細(xi)規(gui)(gui)定(ding)其上下(xia)允(yun)差,這使得各檢測機構試(shi)驗用泡(pao)沫(mo)塑(su)(su)料墊片(pian)(pian)密度、硬度、厚度等(deng)不統一，從而(er)影(ying)響(xiang)試(shi)驗結果(guo)精準性。
蘇(su)丹霞研究了(le)泡沫塑料(liao)(liao)墊(dian)(dian)片的厚度(du)和硬度(du)對織物起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)結(jie)果(guo)(guo)的影響(xiang)，結(jie)果(guo)(guo)表明同(tong)一(yi)硬度(du)條件(jian)下，不(bu)同(tong)厚度(du)的塑料(liao)(liao)墊(dian)(dian)片使得織物起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)等級(ji)(ji)可(ke)相(xiang)差(cha)一(yi)級(ji)(ji)；同(tong)一(yi)厚度(du)條件(jian)下，不(bu)同(tong)硬度(du)的塑料(liao)(liao)墊(dian)(dian)片制(zhi)得織物起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)等級(ji)(ji)可(ke)相(xiang)差(cha)半級(ji)(ji)。董躍(yue)研究了(le)泡沫塑料(liao)(liao)墊(dian)(dian)片的表觀密度(du)對織物起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)結(jie)果(guo)(guo)的影響(xiang)，結(jie)果(guo)(guo)表明不(bu)同(tong)表觀密度(du)的塑料(liao)(liao)墊(dian)(dian)片對化學短纖混紡織物起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)等級(ji)(ji)產生較大(da)影響(xiang)，可(ke)使其起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)等級(ji)(ji)相(xiang)差(cha)一(yi)級(ji)(ji)。
由此(ci)可見,泡沫塑料墊片約定寬松的(de)參數會(hui)對(dui)試驗結果(guo)產生較大影響,建議制(zhi)定嚴(yan)格的(de)參數設置,詳細規(gui)定其單位面(mian)積質量，厚(hou)度的(de)上下允(yun)差(cha)范圍和硬度大小。
2.3 尼(ni)龍刷
標準中(zhong)對尼龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)規定(ding)為(wei)：尼龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)中(zhong)每孔(kong)中(zhong)植尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲150根,孔(kong)徑(jing)4.5mm,每孔(kong)間(jian)距7mm,每根尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲直徑(jing)0.3mm；所用尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)剛性(xing)(xing)大小要(yao)均(jun)勻一致：尼龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)刷(shua)(shua)面要(yao)求平(ping)整，在同一水平(ping)面上；尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有效高度可(ke)通過調(diao)節(jie)板(ban)上下調(diao)節(jie)，從而(er)控制尼龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)效果。另(ling)外附錄A中(zhong)增加了(le)對尼龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)調(diao)節(jie)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)描寫(xie)。作(zuo)為(wei)對織物(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)主要(yao)作(zuo)用的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)尼龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua),標準中(zhong)對其的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)規定(ding)太籠統,如尼龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)制備(bei)材(cai)料(liao)尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)剛性(xing)(xing)大小、新尼龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)預磨參數、試驗用尼龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)高度范圍(wei)等,這些因素都對織物(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)球性(xing)(xing)能產(chan)生很大影(ying)響。
尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)剛性(xing)(xing)大小(xiao)(xiao)對(dui)(dui)(dui)織物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)性(xing)(xing)能具有(you)決定(ding)(ding)性(xing)(xing)影響(xiang)。剛性(xing)(xing)較大的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)使得(de)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)對(dui)(dui)(dui)織物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)產生較大作用力,從(cong)而(er)使織物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)級(ji)數較低：而(er)剛性(xing)(xing)較小(xiao)(xiao)的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)使得(de)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)對(dui)(dui)(dui)織物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)產生較小(xiao)(xiao)作用力,從(cong)而(er)使織物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)級(ji)數較高。標準中(zhong)對(dui)(dui)(dui)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)的(de)(de)只提到尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)的(de)(de)剛性(xing)(xing)應均勻一(yi)(yi)致,而(er)未(wei)詳細規定(ding)(ding)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)剛性(xing)(xing)值大小(xiao)(xiao)。目(mu)前市場上銷售的(de)(de)圓軌跡起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)試(shi)驗(yan)儀所(suo)配的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)來自不(bu)(bu)同的(de)(de)加工廠家。全國各實驗(yan)室所(suo)用的(de)(de)設備型號。廠家也不(bu)(bu)盡(jin)相(xiang)同,尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)剛性(xing)(xing)值不(bu)(bu)統一(yi)(yi)，這對(dui)(dui)(dui)試(shi)驗(yan)結果(guo)的(de)(de)精準性(xing)(xing)和(he)一(yi)(yi)致性(xing)(xing)造成(cheng)嚴重影響(xiang)。
剛出(chu)廠的(de)新(xin)(xin)尼(ni)龍(long)刷(shua)(shua)由于尼(ni)龍(long)絲頭(tou)端形態不一(yi)致(zhi),有尖銳端或(huo)凹陷不平端,對織物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)效果(guo)的(de)正(zheng)確評(ping)估會產生(sheng)不利(li)影(ying)響,所以正(zheng)式(shi)(shi)試(shi)驗前應進(jin)行(xing)預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)。而附(fu)錄A中對預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)的(de)規定為(wei)：新(xin)(xin)尼(ni)龍(long)刷(shua)(shua)正(zheng)式(shi)(shi)試(shi)驗前應進(jin)行(xing)一(yi)定次(ci)數的(de)預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)并用參(can)照織物校(xiao)核(he)。未詳細說明(ming)新(xin)(xin)尼(ni)龍(long)刷(shua)(shua)具體預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)參(can)數,如預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)材料(liao)、預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)載荷預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)次(ci)數等。也未規定具體用哪種參(can)照織物校(xiao)核(he),預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)后參(can)照織物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)效果(guo)達到(dao)幾(ji)級。
尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷試驗有(you)(you)效(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度對(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球效(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)果也產(chan)生影響。有(you)(you)效(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度高(gao)時,尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)屈曲程度大(da),尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)束較(jiao)分(fen)散,相(xiang)對(dui)運(yun)動時尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)束與(yu)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)相(xiang)互(hu)作(zuo)用(yong)力小,使(shi)得織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)球級數(shu)較(jiao)高(gao):有(you)(you)效(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度低(di)時,尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)屈曲程度小,尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)束較(jiao)聚集,相(xiang)對(dui)運(yun)動時尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)束與(yu)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)相(xiang)互(hu)作(zuo)用(yong)力大(da)，使(shi)得織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)球級數(shu)較(jiao)低(di)。標準(zhun)中只提到尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)高(gao)度應(ying)一致,可調節其有(you)(you)效(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度,但有(you)(you)效(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度適(shi)宜范圍值未作(zuo)規(gui)定(ding)(ding),這亟須進一步統(tong)一規(gui)定(ding)(ding)。
3、結(jie)論
為確保圓軌跡起毛起球測試方法(fa)的嚴謹性(xing)和精準性(xing)建(jian)議(yi)修訂 GBT4802.1-2008 標(biao)準時增(zeng)加以下內容
(1)補(bu)充對磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)預磨(mo)(mo)參數(shu)(織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)種(zhong)類、預磨(mo)(mo)壓力(li)、預磨(mo)(mo)次數(shu))規定和對更換舊織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)(mo)料(liao)的(de)起(qi)球評(ping)價標(biao)準參考(kao)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)的(de)規定,統一標(biao)準物(wu)質和試驗參數(shu)。
(2)詳細規定泡沫塑料墊片單位面積質(zhi)量、厚度(du)的上下允(yun)差范圍和硬度(du)大(da)小。
(3)對尼龍(long)(long)刷的(de)(de)制備(bei)材料(liao)尼龍(long)(long)絲剛性值統一規定；補充對新尼龍(long)(long)刷預(yu)磨參數(shu)(預(yu)磨材料(liao)、預(yu)磨載荷、預(yu)磨次數(shu))的(de)(de)規定,明確(que)校核(he)參照(zhao)織物:對尼龍(long)(long)刷試(shi)驗有效高(gao)度(du)加以規定。