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表(biao)1羊絨(rong)衫(shan)起球評定(ding)指標
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羊絨衫起球的原因分析及評定指標
時間：19-06-25 08:34
羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)(shan)以其非凡的(de)(de)風格(ge)和高(gao)雅的(de)(de)氣質(zhi)，深(shen)受廣(guang)大消費(fei)者的(de)(de)喜愛，但羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)(shan)起(qi)球問題(ti)普(pu)遍(bian)，嚴重困擾了消費(fei)者的(de)(de)使用(yong)。羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)(shan)起(qi)球與羊(yang)絨(rong)纖維(wei)特點、面(mian)料結構和消費(fei)者穿著習慣都有關系(xi)。國家標準規定，只要羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)(shan)起(qi)球等級不(bu)超過(guo)允許(xu)的(de)(de)范(fan)圍就是合格(ge)產(chan)品，即使質(zhi)量最上乘的(de)(de)羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)(shan)，在剛開始(shi)穿著時也會在的(de)(de)適(shi)度的(de)(de)范(fan)圍內有輕微的(de)(de)起(qi)球現(xian)象。本(ben)文為您做(zuo)詳細分析。
一(yi)、羊(yang)絨(rong)衫起球的原因
1）纖(xian)維紗線(xian)
羊絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)細(xi)度、長度、卷(juan)(juan)曲是(shi)重要(yao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)工藝特(te)征，羊絨(rong)與羊毛(mao)相比，首先是(shi)細(xi)度小、長度短、卷(juan)(juan)曲數(shu)(shu)少，這樣纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)在紗中(zhong)抱合力小，外露毛(mao)羽多(duo)，再加上(shang)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)滑糯(nuo)在外力的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)作用下從織物(wu)(wu)(wu)中(zhong)滑移(yi)(yi)而產(chan)生掉(diao)絨(rong)起球(qiu)。其次是(shi)其纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)縮絨(rong)性和磨擦系數(shu)(shu)均小，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)間的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)磨擦阻力減少，但因羊絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)鱗片(pian)結(jie)構，使(shi)得羊絨(rong)純紡或是(shi)與羊毛(mao)混紡的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)織物(wu)(wu)(wu)，羊絨(rong)易從織物(wu)(wu)(wu)中(zhong)滑移(yi)(yi)出(chu)來，當纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)集合體受到無定向性外力的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)作用，逆(ni)鱗片(pian)受力的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)容易不斷向根部移(yi)(yi)運，產(chan)生掉(diao)絨(rong)，由于鱗片(pian)之間的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)棘(ji)鎖(suo)和纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)體的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)彈性，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)相互(hu)交錯纏結(jie)起球(qiu)，也引起了動物(wu)(wu)(wu)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)所特(te)有的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)氈縮。
羊(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)的(de)導(dao)電(dian)(dian)能力差(cha)，衣服(fu)在(zai)穿著時，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)間互相(xiang)(xiang)磨擦(ca)，造成(cheng)電(dian)(dian)荷在(zai)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)聚集，產生靜電(dian)(dian)現象，介電(dian)(dian)系數高(gao)的(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)帶(dai)正電(dian)(dian)荷，反之(zhi)(zhi)帶(dai)負電(dian)(dian)荷。如化學纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)與(yu)羊(yang)絨(rong)磨擦(ca)時，化學纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)帶(dai)負電(dian)(dian)荷，羊(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)帶(dai)正電(dian)(dian)荷。不相(xiang)(xiang)同電(dian)(dian)荷的(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)之(zhi)(zhi)間相(xiang)(xiang)互吸引(yin)，易造成(cheng)織物掉絨(rong)起球，當天氣(qi)干燥時這種(zhong)現象尤為嚴(yan)重。
纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)卷曲波形愈多，在加捻時，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)越不容易(yi)(yi)(yi)伸展，在摩擦(ca)過程中纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)容易(yi)(yi)(yi)松動滑移(yi)，在紗線表面(mian)(mian)形成毛茸。為此，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)卷曲性愈好，愈易(yi)(yi)(yi)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)。纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)愈細(xi)，顯露在紗線表面(mian)(mian)的(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)頭端就(jiu)多，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)柔軟性也愈好，因(yin)此細(xi)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)比粗纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)(yi)于糾纏起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)。而(er)對于纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)長度(du)來講，較短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)比長纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)(yi)于起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)，因(yin)游(you)離纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)較多，且(qie)短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)之間的(de)摩擦(ca)力及(ji)抱合力均較小，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)(yi)于滑到織物表面(mian)(mian)，也就(jiu)容易(yi)(yi)(yi)產(chan)生起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)現象。
紗線(xian)(xian)的捻(nian)度(du)和表(biao)面光(guang)(guang)潔(jie)程(cheng)度(du)對起(qi)球也有較大影響(xiang)，捻(nian)度(du)高的紗線(xian)(xian)，纖(xian)維(wei)間的抱合緊密，紗線(xian)(xian)在(zai)受到(dao)摩擦時，纖(xian)維(wei)從紗線(xian)(xian)內滑移相對少，起(qi)球現象減少；由于羊絨衫是柔(rou)軟性織物，過高的捻(nian)度(du)會(hui)使織物發硬，因此不(bu)能靠提高捻(nian)度(du)來(lai)防止起(qi)球。紗線(xian)(xian)光(guang)(guang)潔(jie)度(du)的影響(xiang)，紗線(xian)(xian)越光(guang)(guang)潔(jie)，表(biao)面毛(mao)茸則短(duan)而少，所以(yi)光(guang)(guang)潔(jie)紗線(xian)(xian)不(bu)易起(qi)球。
2）織物(wu)組織結構
織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)組織(zhi)結構(gou)疏松的(de)(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)比(bi)結構(gou)緊密(mi)(mi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)，結構(gou)緊密(mi)(mi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)與外界物(wu)(wu)體摩擦(ca)時，不(bu)易(yi)產生毛(mao)茸(rong)，已(yi)經存在的(de)(de)(de)(de)毛(mao)茸(rong)，又(you)由于纖維之間的(de)(de)(de)(de)摩擦(ca)阻力較大，而不(bu)易(yi)滑到織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)表(biao)面(mian)來，故(gu)可(ke)減輕(qing)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)現象。高機號織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)一般(ban)比(bi)較緊密(mi)(mi)，所以低(di)機號織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)比(bi)高機號織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)。表(biao)面(mian)平(ping)整的(de)(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)不(bu)易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)，表(biao)面(mian)凹(ao)凸不(bu)平(ping)的(de)(de)(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)。
3）染(ran)整工藝的影響(xiang)
紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)或(huo)織(zhi)物經染(ran)色及(ji)整理(li)以后，對抗起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)性將產(chan)生(sheng)較大(da)影響，這與染(ran)料、助劑、染(ran)整工(gong)藝(yi)條件有關，以絞紗(sha)(sha)染(ran)色的紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)比用散毛染(ran)色或(huo)毛條染(ran)色的紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)易起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)；以成衫(shan)染(ran)色的織(zhi)物比紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)染(ran)色所(suo)織(zhi)的織(zhi)物易起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)；織(zhi)物經過(guo)定型，特別是經樹脂整理(li)后，其抗起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)性將大(da)大(da)增強。
4）穿著條(tiao)件的影響
起(qi)球現象需(xu)要從紡織品起(qi)球的(de)(de)機理(li)說起(qi)。羊絨(rong)衫在(zai)穿(chuan)著過程中(zhong)，由于外(wai)罩(zhao)（如外(wai)衣(yi)）施(shi)加的(de)(de)摩擦等(deng)作用，紗(sha)線中(zhong)較短的(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)的(de)(de)一端滑移(yi)出來，在(zai)織物表面相互纏結成球。而(er)羊絨(rong)纖(xian)維(wei)比羊毛的(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)細(xi)而(er)短，加上一般(ban)的(de)(de)羊絨(rong)衫為粗梳產品，羊絨(rong)紗(sha)中(zhong)的(de)(de)短纖(xian)維(wei)含量較高(gao)，更(geng)容易“呲”出來彼此纏結。
因此羊絨衫(shan)在內穿(chuan)時(shi)，與其配(pei)套(tao)的(de)(de)外衣(yi)里子(zi)最(zui)好(hao)是光滑的(de)(de)，不能太粗糙、堅硬，內袋勿裝(zhuang)硬物或插筆等(deng)，以免(mian)局部(bu)摩(mo)擦(ca)起(qi)球；在外穿(chuan)時(shi)，袖子(zi)與桌面、袖子(zi)與沙(sha)發扶手、背(bei)部(bu)與沙(sha)發等(deng)不要長時(shi)間摩(mo)擦(ca)。穿(chuan)著時(shi)間不宜(yi)太長，要注意間歇、交替穿(chuan)著，使其恢(hui)復彈力(li)，以免(mian)纖(xian)維疲勞損(sun)傷。
羊絨衫出(chu)現起(qi)球現象之后(hou)，切忌用手生拉硬扯(che)，正確的(de)方法是在洗滌后(hou)用剪(jian)刀將起(qi)的(de)絨球輕輕地(di)剪(jian)下，在經過幾次洗滌之后(hou)，隨著一些(xie)松散的(de)纖維(wei)脫落，羊絨衫的(de)起(qi)球現象是會逐漸(jian)消(xiao)失的(de)。
二、羊絨衫起球的評定
羊(yang)絨衫的起球(qiu)測定(ding)方法主要采取(qu)GB/T 4802.3—2008《織(zhi)物起毛起球(qiu)性能的測定(ding)第3部分起球(qiu)箱(xiang)法》。產品(pin)(pin)標準有FZ/T 73018—2012 《毛針(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)品(pin)(pin)》和FZ/T 73009—2009《羊(yang)絨針(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)品(pin)(pin)》，具(ju)體(ti)的評定(ding)等(deng)級見表
表(biao)1羊絨(rong)衫(shan)起球評定(ding)指標
注(zhu)：低于二等(deng)品(pin)的為等(deng)外品(pin)。
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